WORTH THE WAIT:

For Muslims, strict rules of Ramadan yield to a sweet feast with family and friends (Gretchen McKay, 10/19/06, Pittsburgh Post-Gazette)

All through Ramadan, observant Muslims are required to abstain during daylight hours from all food, drink and sensual pleasures; no matter how parched their lips or dry their throats, Mrs. Kucukkal points out, even a sip of water is prohibited. (There are exceptions for children, the elderly, and the sick and pregnant.) But once the new moon is sighted over the Muslims' holy city of Mecca in Saudi Arabia, Ramadan and its mandatory fasting period -- known as "sawm" in Arabic -- comes to an end, and Muslims the world round enjoy one of Islam's two most important celebrations, Eid al-Fitr, or the Festival of Fast-Breaking. (The other is Eid al-Adha, the Feast of Sacrifice, which will begin at the end of December.)

After a month of gastronomic denial, it goes without saying that food -- lots of it, and of an infinite variety -- is a big part of the festivities.

Everywhere you go, Mrs. Kucukkal notes, you eat, even if you're not particularly hungry or have already enjoyed that particular dish at someone else's house. Otherwise, she says, you risk making your host feel badly. As a result, most Muslim women spend several days before the festival preparing traditional meals: flaky baklava and a super-sweet confection made from thin sheets of pastry soaked in milk known as gullac, from Turkey; chickpea salad in a tangy tamarind dressing from Pakistan, bulgur salad from Saudi Arabia. [...]

SPICY POTATO KABOB

This traditional kabob can also be made with 1 pound ground beef in place of the potatoes. Kids will enjoy it served with ketchup.

* 4 large potatoes, boiled and peeled
* 1 onion, diced
* 1/2 teaspoon coriander
* 1/2 teaspoon cumin
* 1 teaspoon salt
* 1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper
* Fresh parsley, chopped
* 1 teaspoon lemon juice
* 1 egg, beaten
* Oil for frying

Mash potatoes in bowl, and add onion, spices, salt, pepper and parsley and lemon juice. Shape into small patties. Dip patties in beaten egg, and fry in hot oil until golden brown. Drain and serve with lemon slices.

Makes about 20 kabobs.

-- Shazia Ahmad