May 19, 2005

GOIN' BACK TO MIAMI:

Dagwood would love chivitos (LINDA BLADHOLM, 5/19/05, Miami Herald)

Aron Wolfson has created a slice of home at El Rey Del Chivito, an Uruguayan eating place in the Little Buenos Aires section of Miami Beach.

Wolfson's Argentine neighbors love his sandwiches, pizza, burgers and churrasco, as do the hip crowds lured from South Beach by his mobile billboard -- a tricked-up monster truck with the restaurant's name emblazoned on its sides.

El Rey Del Chivito literally means ''the king of the goat,'' but the chivito is actually a glorified steak sandwich of Dagwood proportions, so large it takes two hands to hold it and propel it into your mouth.

Wolfson is the fifth of 13 children born to Polish immigrant parents in Montevideo, the capital of Uruguay. [...]

He began calling his steak sandwiches chivitos, and as other tourists over the years asked for various toppings, the classic was built: a soft roll, split open, slathered with mayo, layered with lettuce and tomato and topped with a thin grilled steak, onions, limp-fried bacon, fried ham, melted cheese and two fried eggs.

It's best to lean over your plate as you eat so the drippings fall on the mountain of thin, crispy fries that fill the gully between the sandwich halves. Each ''king'' is made to order, with lean beef raised on the pampas of Uruguay. There are also chicken kings.


Take that, Philadelphia!

Posted by Orrin Judd at May 19, 2005 11:12 AM
Comments

Sandwich? That's a ten course meal.

Posted by: AllenS at May 19, 2005 11:43 AM

I remember Wofie Cohen's Rascal House in Miami Beach, now that was good food.

Posted by: pchuck at May 19, 2005 1:53 PM

OJ - Little B.A. (and El Rey Del Chivito) is about a mile from the house, so just let me know when you'll be here.

Pchuck - Unfortunately, the Rascal House has slipped pretty badly. Its sister deli/restaurant, Jerry's, in South Beach remains solid.

Posted by: Foos at May 19, 2005 2:35 PM

Apparently this sam'ich may be found wherever Uruguayans congregate.

I sent the link to a buddy of mine back in NYC, and he forwarded a chowhound discussion about a place on Queens Blvd that serves said Chivito -- don't know if the proportions are as epic however.

Posted by: Jim in Chicago at May 19, 2005 6:21 PM
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