March 9, 2005
BRILLIANT:
Chicken that's basic, brilliant (Aleta Watson, 3/09/05, San Jose Mercury News)
I've tried many ways of roasting chicken, and this [Thomas Keller's recipe for simple roast chicken in his new cookbook, Bouchon] was the easiest I had ever read. Start with a really good chicken, dry thoroughly, season generously with salt and roast at 450 degrees without basting for about an hour. That's it.Posted by Orrin Judd at March 9, 2005 1:31 PMFor his Yountville bistro, Bouchon, Keller's staff brines the chicken before roasting. But this is the method the meticulous chef and owner of the French Laundry, arguably the best restaurant in the United States, uses at home.
If it's good enough for him, I reasoned, it was worth a try. Knowing Keller has built his reputation on impeccable technique, I was careful not to cut any corners.
The results were phenomenal. The skin puffs up like a balloon in the oven and turns a crisp golden brown. The meat stays moist, juicy and full of flavor. A drizzle of pan juices and fresh thyme at the finish takes the dish from basic to brilliant.
Perfect. Just like mom taught me. However, if you have a more modern convection oven, cut the cooking time by about 20% and/or check temp at the thigh joint at about 45 min.
Posted by: John Resnick at March 9, 2005 1:40 PMConvection ovens rock. I like to stuff the bird with as many cloves of garlic as will fit. When it's done, the bird is gloriously garlicky, and you can mash the stuffing (or some of it, anyway) into your mashed potatoes. Did I mention I like garlic?
Posted by: ted welter at March 9, 2005 2:49 PMTed:
If you've a mind to, try mashing some softened butter, chopped tarragon (or thyme) and minced shallots with some salt. Loosen the skin carefully and push the butter all under it. Some loose garlic cloves in the cavity would still be nice. Add a little more butter and salt to the outside skin and roast. Adds terrifically to a white wine pan sauce.
Serve with your favorite NZ or Oregon pinot noir - Burgundy only if you must.
Posted by: Rick T. at March 9, 2005 4:13 PMPS - Many people make the mistake of carving too soon. Wait 15-20 minutes with the chicken loosely covered or all the juices will run out and the bird will be needlessly drier than it should be.
Posted by: Rick T. at March 9, 2005 4:15 PMAny idiot can roast a chicken. The key for superb roast chicken is the brining. Oh, and don't peek. Every time you peek, you lower the temp by 10 degrees. Even if you don't brine, just follow the recipe, but don't peek, and you will have perfect roast chicken.
Posted by: Fred Jacobsen (San Fran) at March 10, 2005 3:19 AMI finally figured out that wretched web site. Here is the full recipie:
Thomas Keller's favorite roast chicken
Serves 4
2- to 3-pound free-range chicken
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 teaspoons minced thyme
Unsalted butter
Dijon mustard
Preheat oven to 450 degrees. Rinse chicken in cold water, then dry very well with paper towels, inside and out. The less it steams, the drier the heat, the better.
Salt and pepper cavity, then truss bird with kitchen twine to help it cook more evenly. (See Note.)
Now, salt chicken -- I like to rain salt over the bird so it has a nice uniform coating that will result in crisp, salty, flavorful skin (about 1 tablespoon). When it's cooked, you should still be able to make out salt baked onto the crisp skin. Season to taste with pepper.
Place chicken in saute pan or roasting pan and, when oven is up to temperature, put chicken in oven. I leave it alone -- I don't baste it. I don't add butter. You can if you wish, but I think this creates steam, which I don't want. Roast it until it's done (165 degrees in the thickest part of the thigh), 50 to 60 minutes. Remove from oven and add thyme to pan. Baste chicken with juices and thyme and let it sit for 15 minutes on cutting board.
Remove twine. Discard wing tip. Separate middle wing joint and eat that immediately. Remove legs and thighs. I like to take off the backbone and eat one of the oysters, the two succulent morsels of meat embedded there, and give the other to the person I'm cooking with. But I take the chicken butt for myself. I could never understand why my brothers always fought over that triangular tip -- until one day I got the crispy, juicy fat myself. These are the cook's rewards.
Cut breast down middle and serve it on the bone, with one wing joint still attached to each. The preparation is not meant to be super elegant. Slather meat with butter. Serve with mustard on the side and, if you wish, a simple green salad. You'll start out using knife and fork, but finish with your fingers, because it's so good.
Note: To truss chicken, place it on a tray with legs toward you. Tuck wing tips under bird. Cut piece of kitchen twine about 3 feet long and center it on top of neck end of breast. Lift neck end of bird and pull twine down around wings and under chicken, then bring ends up over breast toward you and knot twine, pulling it tight to plump breasts. Bring ends of twine around ends of drumstick and straight up. Tie as before to pull drumsticks together and form a compact bird. Tie again to secure knot.
``Bouchon'' by Thomas Keller (Artisan)
