June 4, 2004
REDEEMING THE FOOD NETWORK:
The Thermochemical Joy of Cooking: Food Network superchef Alton Brown is part MacGyver, part mad scientist. Welcome to his lab. (Rebecca Smith Hurd, June 2004, Wired)
"What, are you blind?" TV chef Alton Brown deadpans into the camera. Whoosh! On cue, a Venetian blind drops down in front of him. Brown is whipping up a lemon meringue pie for Good Eats, his weekly romp in the kitchen for the Food Network, and the prop is supposed to help aspiring bakers visualize chemical reactions they can't actually see."Let's just say for a moment that this is a microscopic cross-section of our pie crust in the oven," says Brown, reaching around to run his hand along the closed slats. "By the time the layers of fat start to melt, the protein structure formed by the flour and water needs to be set. That way, when the fat melts, it'll look like this," he says, twisting the rod to open the blind. Brown grabs hold of two slats in the middle and wiggles them up and down. "These are the nice flakes in our flaky crust. If the fats melt before the protein sets, we'll have a real mess on our hands. Ten minutes in the refrigerator will keep that from happening."
Protein structure? Microscopic cross-section? It sounds more like a half-baked high-school science lesson than a half-hour cooking show about pie. Who is this geek? And why doesn't he tuck in his shirt?
Brown, 41, is a culinary hacker, the poster boy for a movement that's coming to a boil in kitchens across America. The essence: Cooking is a science, not an art, informed by chemistry, physics, and biology. "Everything in food is science," Brown says. "The only subjective part is when you eat it."
He brings this philosophy - along with some tasty recipes and a few bad puns - to TV audiences every day. Good Eats averages 425,000 viewers per episode. While food science has a following within the industry, Brown is bringing it to the public, says Shirley Corriher, a frequent guest on the show and the author of CookWise: The Hows and Whys of Successful Cooking. "He does very thorough research. He has a sense of fun and hokiness, and he's a really good teacher."
Think of Good Eats as a cross between Julia Child's Kitchen Wisdom and MacGyver.
Far and away the best show on the network and one of the best on tv, period. Even kids and husbands will enjoy. Posted by Orrin Judd at June 4, 2004 7:22 AM
A good show maybe, but yet another apparent triumph for Imperial Science. Next will they tell us that poetry is a science not an art?
Posted by: Paul Cella at June 4, 2004 7:43 AMOnly the French think food an art.
Posted by: oj at June 4, 2004 7:51 AMAnd American blacks.
Posted by: Paul Cella at June 4, 2004 7:53 AMNot art--familial glue
Posted by: oj at June 4, 2004 8:00 AMI never miss an episode (if I can help it). But I do think there is an art to cooking.
Posted by: Bartman at June 4, 2004 8:11 AMActually, I get the impression that it is some
of these basic chemical secrets which may be
more closely guarded by the culinary industrial complex than any old recipe which even when followed to the letter generally falls short of expectations.
On a related note I had a friend who's father was
a food scientist at Cadbury and was partly responsible for inventing that goo that's inside
the Cadbury Cream Egg. "Better living through
chemistry" indeed.
Isn't Bart a French name?
Posted by: oj at June 4, 2004 8:21 AMThere can be an art to cooking, but baking and particularly pastry chefing is all science.
Posted by: David Cohen at June 4, 2004 8:28 AMDitto what David said. You can get all creative with your tuna casserole and flank steak recipes, but you gotta stick to the recipe EXACTLY with baking. You can still get artsy with the decorations, though...
Posted by: The Wife at June 4, 2004 9:32 AMThere's definitely an art to ordering an Indian takeaway. Does that count?
Posted by: Brit at June 4, 2004 10:22 AMArt and science are layered, not opposed. It's fun to complain that scientizing things is thwarting creativity, but in reality learning the techniques will liberate you to apply them creatively. That's true in cooking, or engineering, or warfare.
And if you actually understand the reason for the techniques you may be able to adapt as well as apply them. There's a Buddist proverb:
What is appropriate for the master is not appropriate for the student; when the building is complete, we take down the scaffolding.
Posted by: mike earl at June 4, 2004 10:43 AMLearning the underlying food science is an absolutely necessary precursor to culinary artistry, and not just for baking -- you can invent the best barbecue sauce in the world, but it won't compensate for overcooked, dried-out meat. There is room for infinite variety in sauces, seasonings, and food combinations, but there really are a very limited number of "right" ways to prepare your basic ingredients. I love Good Eats, not because of Alton's recipes -- I myself tend to improvise, except when baking -- but because the proper techniques for cooking, say, non-mushy vegetables apply no matter what I'm making. The focus is definitely on how to handle the raw materials, not on the right ingredients and proportions for any given dish.
Food science is like knowing how to properly prepare a canvas, mix pigments, or prepare a fresco surface -- ignore the basics, and all your creativity and artistry will go for naught.
Posted by: Atlee Breland at June 4, 2004 12:55 PMDavid:
How hard is it to cut up a Pillsbury cookie dough log and spread them on a baking sheet?
Posted by: oj at June 4, 2004 1:10 PMWife:
The artistry of a well placed fried onion ring atop my casserole is wasted on you.
Posted by: oj at June 4, 2004 1:13 PMOJ: You actually bake Pillsbury cookie dough? You know, there's a reason it comes in squeezable tubes.
Posted by: David Cohen at June 4, 2004 1:49 PMYes, but you need two cookies for a Brothers Judd sandwich--spread Pillsbury Vanilla Frosting between them and viola, as the French say.
Posted by: oj at June 4, 2004 1:59 PMThe wife and I love AB.
Posted by: Mike at June 4, 2004 2:46 PMAnyone who likes this show and wants to learn further will surely benefit by getting a copy of Harold McGee's "On Food and Cooking--The Science and Lore of the Kitchen."
Posted by: Brooks at June 4, 2004 9:26 PM