IMPORTING THE SUPERIOR CULTURE:

Elote asado (charcoal-grilled corn with cream, cheese and chile)

Serves six; recipe courtesy Topolobampo in Chicago

6 ears fresh sweet corn, in their husks

3 Tbsp. unsalted butter, melted

1/2 cup thick cream or commercial sour cream mixed with a little milk or cream

1/3 cup crumbled Mexican queso anejo or queso fresco, or cheese like Parmesan, feta, cotija, or farmer's cheese

1 Tbsp. hot powdered chile (ground chile de arbol, guajillo, or New Mexico chile)

Limes

1. About an hour before serving, place the ears of corn in a deep bowl, cover with cold water and weight with a plate to keep them submerged. Light your charcoal fire and let it burn until the bed of coals is medium-hot; adjust the grill four inches above the fire.

2. Lay the corn on the grill and roast for 15 to 20 minutes, turning frequently, until the outer leaves are blackened. Remove, let cool several minutes, then remove the husks and silk. About 10 minutes before serving, brush the corn with melted butter, return to the grill and turn frequently until nicely browned. Serve right away, passing the cream, cheese, and powdered chile for your guests to use to their own liking. Serve with a wedge of lime.

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