January 1, 2017

THERE'S NO SUCH THING AS QUALITY:

At Tampa Bay farm-to-table restaurants, you're being fed fiction (LAURA REILEY, 4/13/16, Tampa Bay Times)

The restaurant's chalkboard makes claims as you enter from the valet parking lot. At the hostess stand, a cheery board reads, "Welcome to local, farm-fresh Boca."

Brown butcher paper tops tables and lettuces grow along a wooden wall. In a small market case, I see canned goods from here and produce from somewhere. Check the small print: blackberries from Mexico and blueberries from California.

With the tagline "Local, simple and honest," Boca Kitchen Bar Market was among the first wave of farm-to-table restaurants in Tampa Bay to make the assertion "we use local products whenever possible." I've reviewed the food. My own words are right there on their website: "local, thoughtful and, most importantly, delicious."

But I've been had, from the snapper down to the beef.

It's not just Boca. At Pelagia Trattoria at International Plaza, the "Florida blue crab" comes from the Indian Ocean.

Mermaid Tavern in Seminole Heights shouts "Death to Pretenders" on its menu, but pretends cheese curds are homemade and shrimp are from Florida.

At Maritana Grille at the Loews Don CeSar, chefs claim to get pork from a farmer who doesn't sell to them.

This is a story we are all being fed. A story about overalls, rich soil and John Deere tractors scattering broods of busy chickens. A story about healthy animals living happy lives, heirloom tomatoes hanging heavy and earnest artisans rolling wheels of cheese into aging caves nearby.

More often than not, those things are fairy tales.

Posted by at January 1, 2017 9:17 AM

  

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