STOVE TOP STUFFING:

Indian breads: Flat-out fabulous: A crackle, a poof. Chapatis and puris are easy to make at home. (Sudha Koul, September 12, 2007, Los Angeles Times)

I find a dazzling array of possibilities greets me when I go to India: essential chapatis, luxurious parathas (plain and stuffed), festive puris and elegant nans (just buttered or stuffed). Within these four main categories are a variety of improvisations too numerous to mention. (I am often asked whether pappadums and dosas are breads. I would categorize the former as lentil wafers served with condiments and the latter as crêpes; not the staff of life but, rather, elegant accessories.)

All rotis are unleavened flatbreads, the exception being tandoori nans, which are commercially prepared yeast breads, but even these are always flat, albeit fluffy and light as air. Western-style bakery breads, called double rotis (presumably for the two risings of the dough), and tandoori nans are available only at restaurants and cafes, for the simple reason that hardly any home kitchen in India is equipped with a tandoor, and only a small percentage of yuppie cooks there have Western-type ovens.

Admittedly, in a population base of more than 1 billion, even a small percentage is nothing to sneeze at! But cooking in India typically is a stove-top affair. Of the four main Indian breads, the simplest is the humble chapati, the perfect accompaniment to vegetables, curries and dals (lentils).

Chapatis (Los Angeles Times, September 12, 20070

2 cups chapati flour, plus additional for dusting chapatis

1/2 teaspoon salt

1. In a medium bowl, mix the flour and salt together. Stir in three-fourths cup water (or more as necessary), adding it in increments until you achieve a firm, not too soft and certainly not stiff dough. Knead the dough for a couple of minutes until you achieve a smooth consistency, then roll it into a log. Set the dough aside, covered with plastic wrap, for about 30 minutes to rest.

2. Divide the roll into 8 portions and dust lightly with flour. Roll each piece of dough between your palms until you achieve a ball with a smooth surface. Flatten the dough balls slightly with three fingers, then dust lightly again with some flour to facilitate rolling.

3. Using a rolling pin, roll out each flattened dough ball into a circle about 7 inches across. Sprinkle a little more flour if required to prevent sticking, then dust off excess flour.

4. Place the rolled out chapatis on a tray, side by side. Cover with cheesecloth or a kitchen towel and set aside.

5. Heat a griddle over medium heat for 4 to 5 minutes, less if the griddle starts to give off a burning smell. Lower to the heat to low-to-medium heat. Place the chapati on the griddle. Flip the chapati after it changes color (lightly) all over -- this should take a minute or so. Continue toasting for another half minute. Then turn it over. With a small hand towel or paper towel folded like a handkerchief, gently press the outer edges of the chapati down. It should start puffing up. Then press down gently in the middle; it should inflate into a ball.

6. Remove from the griddle. Serve hot off the griddle or stack them, buttered if you like, and wrap in a thick dry cloth napkin or kitchen towel.

Posted by Orrin Judd at September 12, 2007 7:36 AM