WALNUTS SUFFICE:

When basil overflows -- pound it into pesto (MARIE SIMMONS, 8/08/07, Contra Costa Times)

One look at my basil plant spilling out of its giant pot and I knew it was time for pesto.

Traditionally made in a mortar, the word "pesto" is from the Italian "pestare," which means to pound. The most popular of this family of uncooked, pounded sauces is made from basil leaves, olive oil, garlic, pine nuts and cheese. Pesto hails from the region of Liguria, where brilliant green pesto is tossed with trenette -- a flat narrow pasta that is a little wider than linguine and a little narrower than fettuccine -- green beans and potatoes. It is a festive, hearty, bright-tasting dish.

I considered making the pesto the "old way" in my big heavy mortar and pestle, but feeling a bit inpatient, I used the blender. My harvest had yielded 3 packed cups of basil leaves, so I knew I'd have plenty to sauce pasta for at least two meals. Since I planned to freeze the leftovers, I didn't add the cheese. Marcella Hazan, my original mentor in classic Italian cooking, taught me fresh pesto without the cheese. Instead, she instructs in her recipe to thaw the frozen pesto in the refrigerator overnight and to add the cheese just before tossing the pesto with the hot cooked pasta. She insists that it gives the pesto a much fresher flavor, and I believe her. Although, she does add butter to her pesto, which I never do.

My Favorite Pesto (Contra Costa Times, 08/08/2007)

1/2 cup pignoli, plus more to keep on hand, if desired

3 cups lightly packed basil leaves

1 teaspoon coarse salt

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 cup extra virgin olive oil

Parmigiano-Reggiano, as needed

1. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Spread the pignoli on a rimmed sheet pan and place in the hot oven. Set the timer for 5 minutes. Stir the pignoli. Close the oven door and bake for 5 to 6 minutes more, or until toasted a nice dark brown. Remove from the oven and cool slightly.

2. Place the basil, salt, ground pepper and half of the olive oil in the blender or food processor. Add 1/2 cup of the cooled pignoli and pulse to blend. Slowly adding the remaining olive oil, pulse until the basil is finely chopped, but not pureed, stopping the machine to scrape down the inside of the blender jar or the food processor once
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or twice, as needed. There should be some tiny flecks of the basil throughout the sauce.

Posted by Orrin Judd at August 8, 2007 8:46 AM