June 5, 2012

FOOD THAT DOESN'T NEED TO BE HIDDEN UNDER SAUCE:

Food Trucks in Paris? U.S. Cuisine Finds Open Minds, and Mouths (JULIA MOSKIN, 6/04/12, NY Times)

[I]n Paris, American food is suddenly being seen as more than just restauration rapide. Among young Parisians, there is currently no greater praise for cuisine than "très Brooklyn," a term that signifies a particularly cool combination of informality, creativity and quality.

All three of those traits come together in the American food trucks that have just opened here, including Cantine California, which sells tacos stuffed with organic meat (still a rarity in France), and a hugely popular burger truck called Le Camion Qui Fume (The Smoking Truck), owned by Kristin Frederick, a California native who graduated from culinary school here.

"I got every kind of push-back," said Ms. Frederick, 31. "People said: 'The French will never eat on the street. The French will never eat with their hands. They will never pay good money for food from a truck.' " (Her burger with fries costs 10 euros, about $13.) [...]

It could have been Williamsburg, Brooklyn, or Abbot Kinney Boulevard in Los Angeles, but the truck was parked at the north end of the Canal St.-Martin on the Right Bank

"It's against my religion to wait for a burger," said Guillaume Farges, who was near the front of the line, which began to form at 5:30 p.m., though the truck would not open until 7. "But for this one, I make an exception."

American chefs are at the helm of some of Paris's hippest restaurants, like Daniel Rose of Spring, Kevin O'Donnell of L'Office and Braden Perkins of Verjus. And the city's collective crush on high-end hamburgers continues: Parisians are paying 29 euros, or just over $36, for the popular burger at Ralph's, the Hamptons-Wyoming-chic restaurant in the palatial Ralph Lauren store.

No one voluntarily eats French food.

Posted by at June 5, 2012 5:41 AM
  

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